A single Chef, One Roof, Lots of Menus

Mark’s Off Madison, Mark Strausman’s new put on East 26th Avenue, is trying to be at the very least two distinct dining places, probably 3. Maybe four. All of them are fantastic. One of those people restaurants operates only on weekend mornings and afternoons and is in essence Barney Greengrass […]

Mark’s Off Madison, Mark Strausman’s new put on East 26th Avenue, is trying to be at the very least two distinct dining places, probably 3. Maybe four. All of them are fantastic.

One of those people restaurants operates only on weekend mornings and afternoons and is in essence Barney Greengrass South, serving eggs and smoked fish in several mixtures with bagels and bialys.

This is naturally a great notion. It would be a terrific strategy even if the bagels at Mark’s, baked in the again of the restaurant, weren’t firmer and chewier than they are up on 86th Road and Amsterdam Avenue even if the bialys, also manufactured on internet site, weren’t darker and crisper than just about any person else’s even if the cream cheese had been not the finest you can get in New York. The orange and grapefruit juices are fresh new. The espresso is not the form you can dismiss.

Completing the outcome is an indoor takeout counter where by locals on their way from the doggy operate in Madison Square Park can choose up nevertheless-heat bagels and bialys together with sturgeon, whitefish salad, nova and salty lox. At Barney Greengrass these would arrive with a side of the banter that only a white-jacketed specialist in salmon with many decades’ knowledge can provide. The white-jacketed salmon professional at Mark’s is Mr. Strausman himself, while, and you are additional probably to spot him out in the eating room, examining on his loyal clients.

They are legion. A several have been following him from kitchen to kitchen area considering the fact that 1988, when he was the chef at Sapore di Mare in East Hampton, N.Y. Significantly extra tuned in to him right after he arrived to Manhattan in 1990, 1st at Coco Pazzo and then at Campagna, and assisted introduce the city to Tuscan delicacies. In reality, the cuisine was a lot less Tuscany’s than Mr. Strausman’s possess invention. Whatever it was, the Tuscan wave induced a revolution in Italian cooking in New York that lasted for a technology.

In 1996, Mr. Strausman also aided identified Freds, the restaurant inside Barneys New York. Key to the accomplishment of his 23-calendar year run there was his way with Italian cooking, especially pasta. But Mr. Strausman grew to become at least as very well recognized for paying critical notice to delicatessen, diner and club food items like a chopped chicken salad with pears and string beans, and sliced turkey on an onion roll with coleslaw and Russian dressing — titled, autobiographically, the Jewish Boy from Queens.

He began scouting places for an escape hatch in 2019 in circumstance Barneys, which by then was in personal bankruptcy, fell into unsympathetic arms. The hedge fund that experienced acquired the company experienced now attempted to eighty-6 Freds’ rosy sautéed hen livers above sourdough toast, proving the moment all over again that income simply cannot purchase style. Mr. Strausman protested. The entrepreneurs countered by firing him.

The dish, and Mr. Strausman, have been restored to their rightful position at Mark’s. Shining in a loaded gravy that preferences of old port and new sage, the livers are piled in a proud heap you can see from the other side of the dining area. They trip again alongside with other dishes Mr. Strausman has been cooking for several years. So side by facet with bagel-and-lox Mark’s are the next and third personalities, Italian Mark’s and overperforming-coffee-shop Mark’s.

Espresso-shop Mark’s gets its fullest expression on weekend times, simultaneous with and as an alternate to Barney Greengrass Mark’s. If your eyesight of an great brunch does not revolve all around smoked fish, then the tuna salads (plural not long ago, there were two) and turkey sandwiches (once more, two) are there for you. This is the place I encountered the only letdown of my time at Mark’s, a watery brisket hash. Two strips of bacon, thick and majestically smoky, came with it and went a long way towards earning up for it.

Likely to Mark’s at night indicates likely to Italian Mark’s. True, there are just adequate oddities on the meal menu — the great hen soup and the new Bavarian-design pretzels, both equally clear merchandise of Strausmanian obsessions — to convey to you that this is no normal Italian restaurant. But forget about the outliers for a second. Mark’s at night can give you a charming, tender, slouching lump of eggplant Parmesan in which fried eggplant, tomatoes and cheese have come to be a single. The sliced and broiled squid is tossed with hardly charred bread crumbs and chopped raw tomatoes. The bread-crumb lids on the broiled clams are seasoned with ample contemporary herbs to flip them inexperienced. There is a basic spaghetti in a tomato sauce, as well, and that sauce is thicker, fuller and redder than just about just about every other model in town.

Italian Mark’s also signifies garlic. Garlic in each dish I just mentioned, and in most of the kinds I have not. After in a whilst, as in the remarkable numerous-layered meat lasagna, the garlic is restrained. Much more frequently, it is sure of alone, as if it has by no means imagined that every person is not deeply in adore with it. The means Mr. Strausman works by using garlic suggest that his cooking will come at the very least as substantially from Queens and Brooklyn as it does from Florence. That spaghetti sauce, with its invisible jolt of crushed red peppers, would be correct at household at the Park Side in Corona. The linguine alle vongole implies a much less fire-breathing model of the pink clam sauce at Don Peppe in Ozone Park.

Mr. Strausman, who is as adept with dried pasta as with noodles freshly rolled and lower in his individual kitchen, has a much more modern day comprehension of the expression al dente than most of the outdated-guard sites he didn’t very last for additional than two a long time at Freds by overcooking the linguine. A great deal of his Italian cooking arrives off as an affectionate tribute, with respectful improvements, to the Italian American food he have to have eaten growing up. Even the margherita pizza, with its crunchy crust and its grated mozzarella, has additional in popular with a traditional New York slice-joint pizza than with a puffy, blistered Neapolitan pie.

The pizza — obtainable on all days at all several hours — may well or may perhaps not give us a fourth Mark’s. There are around 10 pies on the menu, sufficient for a entire-fledged pizzeria. A person, the white pizza decorated with a dark spiral of 12-yr-previous balsamic vinegar, justifies its very own space in the museum of New York pizza, each time they get about to building just one. On the other hand, the pies in standard are stiffer and not as total of existence as the ones at lots of of the city’s newer, point out-of-the-art pizzerias. It is probably better and a lot more realistic to think about Mark’s an Italian restaurant that transpires to serve pizza, a class in which there is less levels of competition, and in which Mark’s would arrive out near to the top rated.

For dessert, just pick out your favored Mark’s. If it’s the appetizing store, then get the lovingly classic black and white cookies. For espresso-store fans, it will have to be the inky-dim chocolate layer cake with sticky white marshmallow frosting. And just after linguine alle vongole, it is tough to take into account anything other than the tiramisù, which incorporates what have to be quite a few demitasses of espresso. It is a dessert that understands accurately where by to come across the line amongst sweet and bitter, and how to walk it.

Clarita Lorenzano

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